Journal article

Spectral wave-driven sediment transport across a fringing reef

D Pomeroy, RJ Lowe, AR Van Dongeren, M Ghisalberti, W Bodde, D Roelvink

Coastal Engineering | Elsevier | Published : 2015

Abstract

A laboratory experiment was conducted to investigate the dynamics of cross-shore sediment transport across a fringing coral reef. The aim was to quantify how a highly bimodal spectrum of high-frequency (sea-swell) and low-frequency (infragravity and seiching) waves that is typically present on coral reef flats, influences the various sediment transport mechanisms. The experiments were conducted in a 55. m wave flume, using a 1:15 scale fringing reef model that had a 1:5 forereef slope, a 14. m long reef flat, and a 1:12 sloping beach. The initial 7. m of reef flat had a fixed bed, whereas the back 7. m of the reef and the beach had a moveable sandy bed. Four seven-hour irregular wave cases w..

View full abstract

University of Melbourne Researchers

Grants

Awarded by Centre of Excellence for Coral Reef Studies, Australian Research Council


Funding Acknowledgements

A.W.P. is grateful for the support of a Robert and Maude Gledden Postgraduate Research Award and by The Gowrie Trust Fund. The experiment was funded by an ARC Future Fellowship grant (FT110100201) and ARC Discovery Project grant (DP140102026) to R.J.L., as well as a UWA Research Collaboration Award to A.W.P. and R.J.L. R.J.L. also acknowledges the support through the ARC Centre of Excellence for Coral Reef Studies (CE140100020). Additional funding was provided to A.V.D. and W.B. by the Deltares Strategic Research in the Event-driven Hydro- and Morphodynamics program (project number 1209342). We thank Mark Buckley for his assistance in planning and undertaking the experiments as well as the two anonymous Reviewers whose comments have helped to improve this manuscript.