Journal article
Statistical properties of directional ocean waves: The role of the modulational instability in the formation of extreme events
M Onorato, T Waseda, A Toffoli, L Cavaleri, O Gramstad, PAEM Janssen, T Kinoshita, J Monbaliu, N Mori, AR Osborne, M Serio, CT Stansberg, H Tamura, K Trulsen
Physical Review Letters | AMER PHYSICAL SOC | Published : 2009
Abstract
We discuss two independent, large scale experiments performed in two wave basins of different dimensions in which the statistics of the surface wave elevation are addressed. Both facilities are equipped with a wave maker capable of generating waves with prescribed frequency and directional properties. The experimental results show that the probability of the formation of large amplitude waves strongly depends on the directional properties of the waves. Sea states characterized by long-crested and steep waves are more likely to be populated by freak waves with respect to those characterized by a large directional spreading. © 2009 The American Physical Society.
Grants
Awarded by European Community
Funding Acknowledgements
The experimental work in Marintek was supported by the European Community's Sixth Framework Programme, Integrated Infrastructure Initiative HYDROLAB III, Contract No. 022441 (RII3). The experiment at the University of Tokyo was supported by Grant- in- Aid for Scientific Research of the JSPS, Japan. We thank D. Resio and H. Tomita for their support.