Journal article
Statistical properties of mechanically generated surface gravity waves: A laboratory experiment in a three-dimensional wave basin
M Onorato, L Cavaleri, S Fouques, O Gramstad, PAEM Janssen, J Monbaliu, AR Osborne, C Pakozdi, M Serio, CT Stansberg, A Toffoli, K Trulsen
Journal of Fluid Mechanics | CAMBRIDGE UNIV PRESS | Published : 2009
Abstract
A wave basin experiment has been performed in the MARINTEK laboratories, in one of the largest existing three-dimensional wave tanks in the world. The aim of the experiment is to investigate the effects of directional energy distribution on the statistical properties of surface gravity waves. Different degrees of directionality have been considered, starting from long-crested waves up to directional distributions with a spread of ±30° at the spectral peak. Particular attention is given to the tails of the distribution function of the surface elevation, wave heights and wave crests. Comparison with a simplified model based on second-order theory is reported. The results show that for long-cre..
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Funding Acknowledgements
The experimental work was supported by the European Community's Sixth Framework Programme through the grant to the budget of the Integrated Infrastructure Initiative HYDROLAB III, Contract no. 022441 (RII3). We thank D. Resio, N. Mori and T Waseda for valuable discussions.