Journal article

Occurrence of extreme waves in three-dimensional mechanically generated wave fields propagating over an oblique current

A Toffoli, L Cavaleri, AV Babanin, M Benoit, EM Bitner-Gregersen, J Monbaliu, M Onorato, AR Osborne, CT Stansberg

Natural Hazards and Earth System Science | COPERNICUS GESELLSCHAFT MBH | Published : 2011

Open access

Abstract

Laboratory experiments were performed to study the dynamics of three- dimensional mechanically generated waves propagating over an oblique current in partial opposition. The flow velocity varied along the mean wave direction of propagation with an increasing trend between the wave-maker and the centre of the tank. Tests with regular wave packets traversing the area of positive current gradient showed that the concurrent increase of wave steepness triggered modulational instability on otherwise stable wave trains and hence induced the development of very large amplitude waves. In random directional wave fields, the presence of the oblique current resulted in a weak reinforcement of wave insta..

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Grants

Awarded by Seventh Framework Programme


Funding Acknowledgements

This work has been supported by the European Community's Sixth Framework Programme through the grant to the budget of the Integrated Infrastructure Initiative HYDRALAB III within the Transnational Access Activities, Contract no. 022441. F.W.O. project G.0333.09, Australian Research Council and Woodside Energy Ltd Linkage project LP0883888 and E.U. project EXTREME SEAS (contract SCP8-GA-2009-234175) are also acknowledged.