The effect of third-order nonlinearity on statistical properties of random directional waves in finite depth
A Toffoli, M Benoit, M Onorato, EM Bitner-Gregersen
NONLINEAR PROCESSES IN GEOPHYSICS | COPERNICUS GESELLSCHAFT MBH | Published : 2009
It is well established that third-order nonlinearity produces a strong deviation from Gaussian statistics in water of infinite depth, provided the wave field is long crested, narrow banded and sufficiently steep. A reduction of thirdorder effects is however expected when the wave energy is distributed on a wide range of directions. In water of arbitrary depth, on the other hand, third-order effects tend to be suppressed by finite depth effects if waves are long crested. Numerical simulations of the truncated potential Euler equations are here used to address the combined effect of directionality and finite depth on the statistical properties of surface gravity waves; only relative water dept..View full abstract
Awarded by EU
This work was carried out in the framework of the EU project SEAMOCS (contract MRTN-CT-2005-019374). We thank P. Janssen for valuable discussions.