Wave instability in finite depths

Abstract

Copyright © 2014 by ASME. Waves in finite-depth and shallow water represent an important and challenging research topic, both from practical and academic perspective. Most of practical applications related to the ocean are conducted in coastal areas, but most of research attention has been dedicated to the surface waves in deep water. Shallow areas are effectively a different physical environment, where wave kinematics change, waves become steeper and consequently more nonlinear but less or non-dispersive, and as a result their nonlinear behaviors change dramatically, waves directly interact with the bottom, in a number of different ways, and most importantly release their energy and momentu..