Numerical and laboratory investigation of breaking of steep two-dimensional waves in deep water

Abstract

The paper extends a pilot study into a detailed investigation of properties of breaking waves and processes responsible for breaking. Simulations of evolution of steep to very steep waves to the point of breaking are undertaken by means of the fully nonlinear Chalikov-Sheinin model. Particular attention is paid to evolution of nonlinear wave properties, such as steepness, skewness and asymmetry, in the physical, rather than Fourier space, and to their interplay leading to the onset of breaking. The role of superimposed wind is also investigated. The capacity of the wind to affect the breaking onset is minimal unless the wind forcing is very strong. Wind is, however, important as a source of ..