Journal article

A unified deep-to-shallow water wave-breaking probability parameterization

Jean-Francois Filipot, Fabrice Ardhuin, Alexander V Babanin

JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS | AMER GEOPHYSICAL UNION | Published : 2010

Abstract

Breaking probabilities and breaking wave height distributions (BWHDs) in deep, intermediate, and shallow water depth are compared, and a generic parameterization is proposed to represent the observed variability of breaking parameters as a function of the nondimensional water depth. In intermediate and deep water, where waves of different scales may have markedly different breaking probabilities, a BWHD as a function of wave frequency is proposed and validated with intermediate-depth and deep water observational data. The current study focuses on waves with frequencies between 0.55 and 3.45 times the peak frequency fp. For the dominant frequency, the integration of the frequency-dependent BW..

View full abstract

Grants

Awarded by Australian Research Council


Funding Acknowledgements

We gratefully acknowledge contributions of the experimental group of the Australian Defence Force Academy, Canberra, Australian Capital Territory, Australia, who participated in collecting the original Lake George data set. A.V.B.'s research was partially supported by LP0883888 grant of the Australian Research Council and J.F.F. acknowledges the support of a CNRS-DGA doctoral research grant.