Journal article

The form of the asymptotic depth-limited wind-wave spectrum Part II - The wavenumber spectrum

IR Young, AV Babanin

Coastal Engineering | ELSEVIER SCIENCE BV | Published : 2009

Abstract

Data from a spatial array of wave gauges is analysed using the Wavelet Directional Method (WDM) to directly determine the wavenumber spectrum. The data shows that the asymptotic depth-limited wavenumber spectrum can be represented as a two-parameter form, which is far simpler than the corresponding frequency spectrum. The WDM analysis shows that there are significant nonlinear processes active in the finite depth water, which results in energy being "smeared" across a range of wavenumbers and frequencies around the standard dispersion shell. As a result, the wavenumber spectrum has much less peak enhancement than seen in the frequency spectrum obtained with standard Fourier analysis. In addi..

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Grants

Awarded by U.S. Office of Naval Research


Awarded by Australian Research Council


Funding Acknowledgements

The authors gratefully acknowledge the financial support of the U.S. Office of Naval Research (grants N00014-97-1-0234, N00014-.97-10277 and N0014-97-1-0233) and the Australian Research Council (grant A00102965). We also express our gratitude to the staff and students of the School of Civil Engineering of the Australian Defence Force Academy: Jim Baxter, Karl Shaw, Ian Shephard and Michael Wilson who offered highly professional and prompt responses to all urgent demands during the experiments.