Field investigation of transformation of the wind wave frequency spectrum with fetch and the stage of development

Abstract

The variability of frequency spectra of waves is considered; for example, the dependencies of integral and spectral parameters of waves on wave-development factors and the interrelationships of the parameters are examined. Also studied is the transformation of the frequency spectrum shape in the course of its development, as well as the transition from the spectrum of developing waves to the spectrum of fully developed waves. Data were obtained in situ with common methods during a long-term program in the Black Sea. The variability of the spectrum of developing waves, as a function of the stage of wave development, is described on the basis of field data using estimates of parameters for the..