Journal article

The form of the asymptotic depth-limited wind-wave spectrum. Part III - Directional spreading

IR Young

Coastal Engineering | ELSEVIER SCIENCE BV | Published : 2010

Abstract

The directional spreading of both the wavenumber and frequency spectra of finite-depth wind generated waves at the asymptotic depth limit are examined. The analysis uses the Wavelet Directional Method, removing the need to assume a form for the dispersion relationship. The paper shows that both the wavenumber and frequency forms are narrowest at the spectral peak and broaden at wavenumbers (frequencies) both above and below the peak. The directional spreading of the wavenumber spectrum is bi-modal above the spectral peak. In contrast, the frequency spectrum is uni-modal. This difference is shown to be the result of energy in the wind direction being displaced from the linear dispersion shell..

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University of Melbourne Researchers

Grants

Awarded by Australian Research Council


Funding Acknowledgements

The authors gratefully acknowledge the financial support of the U.S. Office of Naval Research (grants N00014-97-1-0234, N00014-97-1-0277 and N0014-97-1-0233) and the Australian Research Council (grant A00102965). We also express our gratitude to the staff and students of the School of Civil Engineering of the Australian Defence Force Academy: Jim Baxter, Karl Shaw, Ian Shephard and Michael Wilson who offered highly professional and prompt responses to all urgent demands during the experiments.