Journal article
The form of the asymptotic depth-limited wind-wave spectrum. Part III - Directional spreading
IR Young
Coastal Engineering | ELSEVIER SCIENCE BV | Published : 2010
Abstract
The directional spreading of both the wavenumber and frequency spectra of finite-depth wind generated waves at the asymptotic depth limit are examined. The analysis uses the Wavelet Directional Method, removing the need to assume a form for the dispersion relationship. The paper shows that both the wavenumber and frequency forms are narrowest at the spectral peak and broaden at wavenumbers (frequencies) both above and below the peak. The directional spreading of the wavenumber spectrum is bi-modal above the spectral peak. In contrast, the frequency spectrum is uni-modal. This difference is shown to be the result of energy in the wind direction being displaced from the linear dispersion shell..
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Awarded by Australian Research Council
Funding Acknowledgements
The authors gratefully acknowledge the financial support of the U.S. Office of Naval Research (grants N00014-97-1-0234, N00014-97-1-0277 and N0014-97-1-0233) and the Australian Research Council (grant A00102965). We also express our gratitude to the staff and students of the School of Civil Engineering of the Australian Defence Force Academy: Jim Baxter, Karl Shaw, Ian Shephard and Michael Wilson who offered highly professional and prompt responses to all urgent demands during the experiments.