Measurements of the evolution of ocean wave spectra due to bottom friction

Abstract

Data from a field experiment in the Great Australian Bight are analyzed to determine the spectral decay which can be attributed to bottom friction. The spectral wave model WAM is used as an analysis tool, explicitly taking other additional processes into account in the analysis. The data show marked spectral decay across the shelf. Analysis reveals that the bottom friction coefficient varies approximately inversely with the wave-induced bed velocity. Percolation may also be important in the region. -from Authors