Wave generation by wind

Abstract

Wind-generated waves are fundamental elements in air–sea interaction, which facilitate the exchange of momentum between the atmosphere and ocean. This article reviews theories of wave growth during the three phases of, onset over a flat water surface, mature growth (which gives rise to the windsea), and very high wind-speed environments. Techniques for directly measuring wind-to-wave energy input, which for each wave component is proportional to the time average of the product of the sea surface slope and the sea surface atmospheric pressure, are also described, and a perspective is given on the large observed range of wave growth rates, which is controlled in particular by flow separation o..