Wind-Generated Waves

Abstract

As this book considers the dynamics of water waves on the interface between air and water (the ocean in this context), it is necessary to define how one can describe these waves. The simplest approach is to consider that such waves can be approximated by a two-dimensional sinusoidal form. That is, waves which have infinitely long crests with the surface elevation, η is defined by η = a sin(kx − ωt), (1.1) where a is the wave amplitude, k = 2π/L is the wave number, L is the wave length, ω = 2π/T is the frequency, T is the wave period, and x and t are space and time, respectively. Small amplitude or linear wave theory [Airy, 1945] can be used to define relationships between quantities such as ..