Journal article

The role of seaward morphology on wave transformation onto and across a microtidal shore platform

Thomas R Savige, Hanna EL Kowalczyk, Thomas E Fellowes, David M Kennedy

CONTINENTAL SHELF RESEARCH | PERGAMON-ELSEVIER SCIENCE LTD | Published : 2021

Abstract

Waves are a primary erosive agent on intertidal shore platforms. In microtidal environments, as waves cross a shore platform the energy transforms from gravity to infragravity frequencies. The morphology of the intertidal zone is a key boundary condition for this energy transformation. Waves approaching the shore however often interact with the seabed at some distance from the intertidal platform. In this study we explore this wave interaction over a gently sloping subtidal ramp (1 km wide) down to 11 m water depth fronting a semi-horizontal intertidal platform (180 m wide). Five non-directional pressure sensors were installed on the sea floor from 5 to 11 m depth for one week with a further..

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University of Melbourne Researchers

Grants

Awarded by Australian Research Council Linkage Program


Funding Acknowledgements

This work was funded by the Australian Research Council Linkage Program (LP130100204). The authors thank Ben Cleveland for assistance with SCUBA operations and Rob Timmers of SEAL Diving Services for boat support. The authors acknowledge Mark Dickson for provision of the Matlab scripts used in the study. Critical reviews by Zuzanna Swirad and an anonymous reviewer were appreciated.